Saturday, August 8, 2009

Ely's Peak.........

Tom, Luke, Tesa, Jane and I went climbing at Ely's Peak today! It was pretty wet from very low lake effect clouds. The climbs were pretty wet so we just set up a couple of top ropes and practiced mach lead in wet conditions. A real fun mach lead was Dislocation Overhang, grade 5.6. We really focused on always watching our feet placement. Although the rock was more slippery you could get good solid stances. It's good to practice in all types of conditions as you never now what you will encounter in the mountains. I felt I probably could have done Trad Lead today, but it's probably best to err on the side of caution in wet conditions.

In Strength

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Today's Quote........

"You can only lead others, where you yourself are prepared to go."

-----Lachlan McLean

In Strength

VE:) >>>>>>>>>>>

Went climbing at VE and had a pretty good night. I worked on my foot placement, hip into the wall, balance and felt good about my climbing form. Did the 5.8+ roof climb and felt strong on surmounting the roof. Next week I plan on doing the 5.10a roof climb. Tom and I finished the night climbing in the Natural area of the gym, I nailed a 5.10b on sight and felt my climbing form was spot on. One of my goals at the gym is to do at least one roof climb per visit. Roofs have always been difficult for me, so therefore do more roofs and overhangs.

In Strength

Sunday, August 2, 2009

Red Wing Sport Lead.....

Went sport lead climbing with Tom and Jim. Unfortunately today was my day for falling, I'm greatful for my climbing partners belaying skills. I fell quite a ways on Rock-A-Holics 5.8 and decided not to try it again as I was a little shook up. I then had a short fall on Jenna's Face 5.8, on this one however I got back on the wall and completed the climb. Also climbed Sunburst 5.7-, Cinq Jour D'Afille 5.7, Goofed on Skunkweed 5.8-, Living Postmortems 5.8-. I believe my problem is my feet, I have to pay more attention to my feet placement as I have noticed as I climb above my anchor my focus has been more on the next clip and my hands, kinda tunnel vision. The good thing is the falling was done in good form, feet into the wall...Ha ! Ha! Ha! I plan on practicing more sport lead in the gym and concentrate on feet placement, form and balance. Hopefully it will carry over to outdoor sport lead.

In Strength